The best way to paint christmas ornaments is to apply thin layers of acrylic craft paint with a soft, synthetic brush on a clean, dry surface. You should wait two hours between coats to ensure even coverage, with the entire project requiring about 24 hours to dry completely.
How to Paint Christmas Ornaments
Creating custom holiday decor is a rewarding project that allows you to match your ornaments to your home’s color scheme. Whether you’re using glass, plastic, or ceramic bases, the preparation and layering process remains largely the same. Follow these steps to ensure your paint adheres properly and lasts for many seasons.
- Clean the surface: Wipe your ornaments with a soft cloth dipped in rubbing alcohol to remove any factory oils or fingerprints. Let them air-dry completely for 15 minutes before you touch them again.
- Secure the ornament: Place the ornament onto a small wooden dowel or a long, thin paintbrush handle. This keeps the ornament stable and allows you to rotate it without smudging your work.
- Apply the base coat: Use a light touch to apply your first thin layer of paint. It’s better to have several transparent layers than one thick, gloopy one that might drip or crack as it cures.
- Dry between layers: Wait until the paint is no longer tacky to the touch before adding more. This usually takes 2 hours in a room with low humidity, but you can speed this up slightly with a fan.
- Add fine details: Use a detail brush with very short, stiff bristles to add names, dates, or small designs once your base coat is fully opaque. Keep your hand steady by resting your wrist on a solid surface.
- Protect the finish: Spray the finished ornament with a clear acrylic sealer in a well-ventilated area. Hold the can 10 inches away and use short, sweeping bursts to avoid pooling or yellowing.
- Cure completely: Leave your painted ornaments in a cool, dry place for at least 12 hours before hanging them on a tree. Placing them too close to heat sources before they’re fully cured can cause the finish to soften.
| Ornament Material | Recommended Paint Type | Drying Time (per coat) |
|---|---|---|
| Plastic | Acrylic Craft Paint | 1–2 hours |
| Glass | Glass Enamel or Acrylic | 2–3 hours |
| Ceramic | Acrylic or Ceramic Paint | 1–2 hours |
| Wood | Acrylic or Chalk Paint | 30–60 minutes |
Tip:
Is It Safe to Do This Yourself?
Painting ornaments at home is a safe activity for most people, provided you use water-based acrylic paints and work in a space with good airflow. Because you aren’t using industrial sprayers or volatile solvents, the risk of inhaling harmful fumes is extremely low. Always check the labels on your craft supplies to ensure they’re non-toxic, especially if children are participating.
If the label says “conforms to ASTM D-4236,” the product has been reviewed for chronic health hazards. If you don’t see this certification, assume the product requires extra ventilation.
When using aerosol sealers, you must take precautions to protect your lungs and skin. It’s essential to use spray products only outdoors or in areas with cross-ventilation. If you have sensitive skin, wearing thin nitrile gloves prevents contact dermatitis, a common reaction to synthetic pigments.
The primary mistake is applying sealers in a closed garage. This traps microscopic particulates in the air for hours. If you smell a chemical odor after the spray has dried, you haven’t provided enough ventilation. Move your workspace outside immediately to prevent respiratory irritation.
Why Does the Paint Keep Peeling Off?
If your paint is flaking or peeling after it dries, it’s almost always because the surface wasn’t prepared correctly or the paint was applied too thickly. A smooth surface, especially glass, doesn’t allow paint to “bite” into the material. If you skip the cleaning step, the natural oils from your hands act as a barrier that prevents the paint from bonding.
Another common reason for peeling is the use of old or low-quality paint. Craft paints have a shelf life; if they have been stored in a garage where temperatures fluctuate, the binding agents can break down. This results in a brittle finish that cracks as the ornament expands or contracts with changes in room temperature. If your paint looks clumpy or has a strange, watery separation in the bottle, it’s best to replace it rather than trying to thin it out.
Can I use spray paint instead of a brush?
Yes, but you have to be much more careful with your technique. Spray paint dries very fast and can easily form thick, uneven spots that ruin the look of a delicate ornament. If you choose this method, use several extremely light “dusting” coats rather than trying to cover the entire ornament in one pass.
What if I make a mistake while painting?
If you catch the error while the paint is still wet, you can wipe it away immediately with a damp cotton swab. If the paint has already dried, you can gently scrape it off with a plastic scraper or soak the entire ornament in warm, soapy water for 30 minutes to soften the acrylic layer until it peels away.
Does the type of brush matter?
It matters more than you’d think. Synthetic brushes are generally the best choice for acrylics because they hold their shape well and don’t leave as many visible bristles in the paint. Natural hair brushes are often too soft and can cause the paint to streak, which is particularly noticeable on dark or metallic colors.
How do I store painted ornaments safely?
Once your ornaments are fully cured, wrap them individually in acid-free tissue paper before placing them in a storage bin. Never store them in plastic bags, as the paint can sometimes stick to the plastic over the summer months, especially if your storage area gets warm. A hard-sided box with dividers is the best way to prevent scratching.
Essential Tips for Better Results
You’ll get much better results if you think about how the light hits your tree. Ornaments painted with high-gloss finishes will reflect the glow of your holiday lights, while matte finishes tend to absorb light and can look a bit dull if they’re too dark. If you want a professional look, try mixing a small amount of metallic medium into your standard acrylic paint. This gives your colors a subtle shimmer that mimics expensive, store-bought baubles.
Another thing to consider is the weight of your paint. If you’re painting a very lightweight plastic ornament, don’t apply so many layers that the ornament becomes heavy on one side. This can cause it to tilt forward on the tree branch, making your design hard to see. Keep your layers thin and balanced to ensure the ornament hangs straight.
If you’re painting a design that involves multiple colors, always start with the lightest color first. It’s very difficult to paint a light yellow or white over a dark navy blue or black. By laying down your light colors as a base, you can easily paint the darker details on top without having to worry about the colors blending or looking muddy.
Finally, remember that the “best” way is often the one that works for your specific skill level. If you aren’t comfortable with fine detail work, stick to abstract patterns like stripes, polka dots, or color-blocking. These designs look just as festive as complex illustrations and are much easier to execute without frustration. Give yourself room to experiment on a scrap piece of cardboard before you start on your actual ornaments to get a feel for how the paint flows from your brush.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need to prime the ornaments before painting?
You usually don’t need a formal primer for plastic or glass ornaments if you clean them properly first. However, if you’re painting wood or porous ceramic, a quick coat of white gesso or a dedicated craft primer will help the colors pop and stop the material from soaking up all your paint.
Can I paint the inside of a glass ornament?
Yes, this is a popular technique called “swirl painting.” You pour a small amount of acrylic paint inside the bulb, rotate it until the entire interior is coated, and then drain the excess. It creates a perfectly smooth, glossy finish on the outside without any brush marks, though it takes longer to dry.
Will the paint crack if I hang it near a heater?
Acrylic paint is flexible, but extreme heat can cause it to become brittle over time. It’s best to avoid hanging your handmade ornaments directly above or next to a fireplace or a space heater. A moderate, stable room temperature is the safest environment for your painted decorations to stay in good shape.
Is it necessary to use a sealant?
You should always use a sealant if you want your ornaments to last for years. A clear acrylic spray protects the paint from dust, moisture, and the oils on your fingers when you handle them each year. Without a sealer, the paint can eventually get sticky or start to rub off during storage.
How do I fix a drip that dried on the ornament?
If you have a visible drip, wait until the paint is 100% cured, then gently sand it down with a very fine-grit sanding sponge. Once it’s level with the rest of the surface, you can touch up the spot with a tiny bit of paint and re-seal it. Be careful not to sand through to the ornament material.
Can I use watercolors or tempera paint?
Avoid using watercolors or tempera for this project, as they aren’t designed for non-porous surfaces like glass or plastic and will flake off. Instead, use acrylic craft paint, which is the industry standard because it’s durable, water-resistant once cured, and adheres well to almost any surface.
Conclusion
Once your decorations are completely dry, you’ll want to add a clear acrylic sealer to protect the colors from fading or scratching. It’s a simple step that keeps your hard work looking vibrant for years. You’re going to love how they sparkle when you finally hang them on your tree this season.
